Which Sealer Would You Choose For This Transmission?

**Video Sponsored by LOCTITE® with great information.**

In this video I introduce you to 3 different types of sealants from LOCTITE, LOCTITE 5699, LOCTITE 598, and LOCTITE 518. I also talk about the differences between an RTV and an anaerobic sealant.

Which one would you choose to seal this transmission?

More info

LOCTITE 5699: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/gasketing-sealants/loctite_si_5699.html?&utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=influencer campaign&utm_content=–etcg video

LOCTITE 598: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/gasketing-sealants/loctite_si_598.html?&utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=influencer campaign&utm_content=–etcg video

LOCTITE 518: https://www.henkel-adhesives.com/us/en/product/flexible-sealants/loctite_518.html?&utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=influencer campaign&utm_content=–etcg video

“Do It Right” LOCTITE Users Guide: http://www.useloctite.com/downloads/187533_loctite_guide_book_updated.pdf?&utm_source=youtube&utm_medium=video&utm_campaign=influencer campaign&utm_content=–etcg video

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21 thoughts on “Which Sealer Would You Choose For This Transmission?

  1. I just replaced the transmission in my papa Chevy Cruze I'm so proud of myself only to find out at the very last second I cleaned everything up everything was looking beautifully if I say so myself the engine lined up with the transmission perfectly wires connectors hoses everything was back to how it should be even better only to notice a crack in the bottom of the transmission how did it get there I have no idea I hope it wasn't for me I don't see how it could have been but reality is it is there and it was Dripping little bit but still dripping transmission from it my question is what would you recommend that I use I've tried the water weld it didn't work JB's adhesive metal mend I think it was and that still didn't work so I want to try one last thing I'm going to scrape everything off that I put on before I hate sand it down what do you suggest I use to stop it from leaking on the bottom of the transmission please if you have any advice I really appreciate it

  2. I can teach you the secret to getting the case on, it iws in the FSM 🙂 Put the case in 3rd gear before dropping the out half on, also need to have the outer manishaft bearing (angular thrust loaded) out of the case to start with.

  3. I used threebond 1215 sealant its toothpast style very good for sealing manual gearbox machine surfaces seal it up then torque up to your manufacture recompmended (also good 4 gearbox plug threads) allow 24hr cure time before adding gearbox oil then check 4 leaks hopefully u done it right no more leaks happy days good video tho "CHEERS MATE!" from down under

  4. I typically use permatex ultra black, but one day i didnt have any and i was doing a oil pan and used the red one u was showing that dries after sealed, i shipped the car, customer picked it up, it came back maybe 2 weeks later with a oil leak and i pulled the pan back off and it was still goop, never dried, and i will never use that stuff ever again

  5. 518, 515 or 510 ONLY!!!

    Any silicone / RTV does not belong anywhere in or on your engine! They cause more problems than they claim to fix.

    The Anaerobic sealants work awesome with paper gaskets and is so easy to clean up after assembly.

    RTV is garbage

  6. GOOD VIDEO There is another brand of sealant called threebond 1215 250gm toothpast style grey liquid sag type style sealant for gearbox transmission transmission trans axle also another type permatex 81182 gear oil rvt gasket maker also for gearbox transmission trans axle both for close fitting machine surfaces ive heard very good reviews for both sealants I hope this helps cheers Eric

  7. The information contained in your videos and breakdowns are a great source for reference. I needed the info and remembered you had this video, took me a minute to get the right search but I feel most fortunate to see your new videos since the shop farewell. Thank you for everything past, and anything forward.

  8. Dude. Somebody pooched that rear main seal surface. Jesus Christ. Whoever did that shouldn't be working on cars!

  9. Black. Each has its own merits. One may be more sturdy than the other, as well. That's what I'd be looking at.

  10. Looking for advice about a transmission in a 1995 nissian pathfinfer xev6. The vehicle will not go into reverse all of the other gears work fine. I bought a used transmission and had it put in it. Still have the same problem. The linkage looked good, all new fluid, any ideas of what else could be wrong with it ?

  11. I had a customer that was all sorts of mad the other day because we didn’t sell Loctite brand products and his mechanic told him to go find some thread locker in that brand and that brand only. I tried to explain to him that Permatex has been around for a very long time and has about three different levels of thread locking for depending on what they are trying to achieve. In the end he left slamming our front door and said he was never coming back all because we didn’t have Loctite brand products.

  12. Big advantage of anaerobic sealants such as the 518 is that it wont easily cure in places you don't want it to.
    One good example is Rover K series where the head is essentially split in the middle of cams and the whole upper deck is sealed to the lower one. WIth tons of small oil passages … when RTV is used more often than not too much of it is used and it gets squeezed into the oil passages blocking them… and then you starve the cam bearings or tappets of oil. Anaerobic sealant will get flushed out by the oil.

    Anyway that leads me to the main point… Eric use less of it. As you said, it's precision machined surfaces. They Align very well and you really only need a thin even coat and not a worm like when using RTV to fill up gaps. If there are uneven spots or gaps, the 518 aint the good product to use anyway as it is really ideal for those tightly fitting flanges… and on those… just use less … saves you that oversqueezed bit that is kind of unnecessary especially on the inside.

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